Zodiac Early 1950s 916 Sub Second Manual

I added this Zodiac to my collection because this simple, sub-second dress model is a great example of what Zodiac used to be before it was consumed by sport and dive watches in the 1960s. I also love the contrast between the gold hands and markers and the bright silver (rhodium) case - a combination that goes particularly well with the navy blue strap.

The modified FHF movement in this piece was also incredibly stubborn. I’m very picky about performance when I restore a watch movement, and at first the amplitude simply wasn’t where I wanted it—worse, I couldn’t figure out why. After chasing my tail repeatedly, I finally threw my hands up and set this watch aside in a project drawer for nearly a year. Eventually I came back with fresh eyes and improved skills, and made the only decision that ever really works when a watch turns stubborn: I completely started over. Full re-clean, re-service, and a reset of assumptions. I still can’t tell you what the original gremlin was—but the second time through, the movement came alive. Now it runs with reasonable, if not stellar, amplitude and keeps good time. Now, every time I wind this watch it reminds me of the value of persistence.

Reference: 916
Movement:
Zodiac 12 (FHF 26) (17 Jewels)
Movement Type: Manual
Complications: None
Case Type: Rhodium Plated (replated from Chrome) with Stainless Steel Snap Back
Case Size: 32mm

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Wittnauer Early 1960s 2555 Sub-Second Automatic

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Zodiac Late 1960s 702-919 Monoblock Automatic