Cortébert Early 1940s Black Dial Bumper Automatic

I had been looking for the right vintage Cortébert to add to my collection for a while, and I was thrilled to find this early bumper automatic example. The black and charcoal dial with, crisp minute track, and restored stainless steel hands give it real presence, and the whole thing pops even more against the bright, polished stainless case. It’s one of those watches that looks like it was built to be read instantly, in bad light, in the real world—not just to be admired in a box.

Beyond the look, and the Cortébert name, I was also excited about the movement. The A. Schild 1173 bumper automatic represents a genuinely interesting early chapter in the story of self-winding watches—partway between the earliest “swinging weight” ideas and the later full-rotor automatics that became the default.  This one is in great condition and runs accurately and consistently, with great amplitude, following a thorough service.

Cortébert itself is a fun watch rabbit hole: a historically significant Swiss maker with deep roots and a strong presence in timing/railway history, even if the name isn’t as widely recognized today.    This watch feels like a great example of that era—practical “waterproof” engineering, bold legibility, and a movement design that still tells a story when you open the back.

I’ve also written up a detailed technical examination of the AS 1173 movement for my blog.

Reference: 8500
Movement:
AS 1173 (17 Jewels)
Movement Type: Automatic
Complications: Sweep Second
Case Type: Full Stainless Steel Screwback
Case Size: 32mm

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Omega 1963 167.005 Constellation Chronometer Automatic

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Wittnauer Early 1960s 2555 Sub-Second Automatic